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Fluorescent Tubes

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Example:  F40T12CWSSECO
F = Fluorescent

40 = Wattage

T = Tubular

12 = Size; 12/8” or 1½” Diameter

CW = Color: Cool White

SS = Super Saver in this case 34 watts

ECO = Ecologic or Environmentally Friendly (low mercury)


 

Example:  CF23EL830/MED

CF = Compact Fluorescent

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23 = Wattage

EL = Electronic Start

8 = CRI “Color Rendering Index”

30 = Color: Warm White

MED = Medium Screw Base “Standard Edison Base”

 



image003Incandescent Bulbs

Example:  60A19FR – 130V

60 = Wattage:  60 Watts

A = Shape “A-Line”

19 = Size: 19/8” or 2 3/8” Diameter

FR = Frosted

130v = Voltage


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Example:  300PS25MOG/CL – 130V

300 = Wattage:  300 Watts

PS = Shape “Pear Shape”

25 = Size: 25/8” or 3 1/8” Diameter

MOG = Base: Mogul

CL = Clear

130v = Voltage
 
Decorative Bulbs

Example:  25G25CL – 130V

25 = Wattage: 25 Watts

G = Shape “Globe”

25 = Size: 25/8” or 3 1/8” Diameter

130v = Voltage


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Example: 40CCF – 130v

40 = Wattage: 40Watts

C = Candelabra Base

C = Clear

130v = Voltage

F = Flame or Bent Tip


image006Why does 130-volt matter?
In Tulsa, like most cities, voltage fluctuates between 117 – 124 volts at the source (outlet).  130 volt commercial grade products have a heavier duty filament designed to handle the surge from excess voltage that comes from something as simple as turning on the light switch.  Ever notice that’s when most bulbs burn out?  Lighting Inc. stocks only 130-volt products wherever they are available.

 


 

image007HID Lamps
Example: MH400/C/U
MH = Metal Halide
400 = Wattage
C = Coated
U = Universal Burn i.e. Base Up, Base Down or Horizontal
 


image008Example: LU400/Eco
LU = High Pressure Sodium
250 = Wattage
CO = Ecologic or Environmentally Friendly (low mercury)